Category Archives: tourism

Ayutthaya, Thailand

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After an ugly week in Bangkok, the protests have been dismantled and everyone seems to be waiting to see what happens next. This has been a tough time for Thailand. For a country that thrives on tourism, more tough times will likely be ahead. But this is a resilient region and hopefully the situation will remain calm and the tourists will return soon.

If and when you do find yourself in Bangkok, make sure you get to nearby Ayutthaya, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The three chedis of Wat Phra Sri Sanphet are shown in both of the photos here. Ayutthaya was the second Siamese capital (founded in 1350) and the city was nearly burned to the ground in 1767 when the Burmese invaded — proof that this region has bounced back before. The remaining ruins are scattered on and around an island created by the confluence of three rivers — the Chao Phraya, the Lopburi and the Pa Sak — as seen on this map from Travelfish. I only visted three or four of these sites and could easily spend a week or more here continuing to explore.

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I’d seen photos of these ruins prior to visiting but still wasn’t prepared for their scale. The woman in the white skirt (above) gives you some idea of just how big these chedis — the bell-shaped towers — are. In this case, the three chedis were built to house the ashes of kings.

One day here was not nearly enough. While it would be hard to say what my favorite spot in Thailand was, this would certainly rank up there in terms of places I wish I could have spent more time. There is so much to see and I only scratched the surface.

A visit to the hill tribes of Thailand

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In the afternoon of my second day in Thailand, I visited some highland villages north of Chiang Mai. The people who live in this area migrated to Thailand over the last few centuries from China and Tibet. My first stop was a working village that was largely agricultural but had a couple of small stands where they sold their traditional woven fabrics to the occasional tourists that ventured up.

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I posted a couple of other shots from this village in an earlier post. The shot at the top of this post and those that follow came from another village that is more of a tourist-centered, cultural village. This felt like much less of a real, working village and more like something that was created to show off the crafts of each of several tribes. Each grass-roofed “house” had someone weaving or sewing on the porch. Among the tribes represented were the Long Neck Karen, whose women are known for wearing the heavy brass rings on their necks.

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One can argue the merits of this second type of village. As tourism grows in an area, these types of villages are ways to present local cultures to tourists in a way that is easily accessible to travelers (no need to venture high into the mountains to some remote village with no services, for instance). That also reduces the impact of tourism on the real, working villages where people want to just live their lives and maybe don’t want tour busses rolling through on the hour. On the other hand, you’re hardly seeing the real way of life of these people in such a controlled display. It’s a form of packaged tourism rather than a true experience. I don’t have an answer for what is right but I do hope that, whichever route is taken, it is good for the local people. Tourism may be key to their survival as their old ways of nomadic farming become nearly impossible with the onset of modern development on all sides. The world is changing and I think many cultures are desperate to find ways to assimilate while keeping something of their own cultural identities intact.

Bo Sang, Thailand: Umbrella Village

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Post-processing images from a trip is like replaying the experience in slow motion. A heavy day’s worth of images can easily take more time to process than to shoot. I don’t tend to review my shots on the road that much. I’ll chimp a bit to make sure everything is working properly but I’m a bit of a battery miser and — given the pace that I’m often traveling — just don’t have the time to review thoroughly on the road. That said, I always have a reasonable idea of what’s on the hard drives at the end of the day and I wonder how I ever managed, back in the days of film, to travel for weeks and not have any idea of what my take looked like until slides arrived back from the lab. Digital — how’d I ever live without you?

So this post is the first of several that I’ll write as I relive my recent trip to Thailand. Day one has now been processed and it began with a trip to Bo Sang, otherwise known as “umbrella village”, near Chiang Mai. Everywhere you turn in this town, there are umbrellas. They are not just sold here, but manufactured here. From raw materials to brightly decorated umbrellas and fans, you can observe the entire process. And it’s humbling to watch. This is not a high-tech factory situation but many skilled workers turning bamboo, wood and paper into functional objects, mostly with the simplest of hand tools. And they work incredibly fast with the assuredness that comes with years of experience.

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Much of the manufacturing happens in small, open-air spaces behind homes around the village but the decoration and painting can be seen taking place near the town gate, behind a shop that sells — you guessed it — umbrellas. Freshly papered umbrellas dry on the grass in a central courtyard while painters work in the shade of the surrounding awning. As I photographed these people working, some would offer to paint dragons on my camera bag in just 10 minutes (an offer I now regret not taking them up on). In fact, they’ll paint just about anything for you and I witnessed many people getting their shirts painted right on their backs.

Each January, Bo Sang holds an umbrella festival complete with parades and beauty contests. That, I can imagine, would be a true photo opportunity.

A note on the warmth of these shots: I tend to shoot with my white balance set to “cloudy” to add a little extra warmth much as one would do by adding a warming filter when shooting with film. The warmth in these images is largely natural, however, due to the air quality. Controlled burning of agricultural fields in the area was creating a fair amount of smoke and haze, not unlike what I often experience back home in the Great Plains of the U.S. in the spring. While it doesn’t do much for landscape photography where you want good visibility and blue skies, it does extend those golden hours as the sun filters through the smoke. As with many situations in photography, you can view it as a problem or an opportunity. Here, I think it worked in my favor and has added a cohesive tone element to everything I shot that morning.

Thai puppet show

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I shot this with special permission at the Thai Puppet Show in The Aksra Theater in Bangkok last night. It was a fantastic performance and capped an amazing day of photographing temples in the ruins of Ayutthaya. So many images to share and so little time at the moment.

More to come…

In the Pen

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Sorry for my recent absence… I’ve been in the penitentiary.

Don’t worry — just touring. After a few days in St. Louis last week, we stopped in Jefferson City, Missouri, to tour the recently decommissioned Missouri State Penitentiary with our guide Mark Schreiber (above). Mark was the Deputy Warden when the site closed and has tons of great stories. Tons. The tours are definitely worth checking out but be sure to get reservations as they are sold out weeks in advance.

I’m now in the Black Hills of South Dakota. The weather is currently toying with us but this is one of those places that I think is just as beautiful in the rain. Still, I’d take a little sunshine. Fingers crossed…

The Great Sphinx

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It’s been a busy week and I’ve had no internet access for days but the touring of Egypt has been great. I’ll have to catch up with more images after I get home, but here are a couple from the icons of Egypt: the pyramids of Giza and the Great Sphinx.

Having seen so many great images of these structures in my life, it was a little hard not to be disappointed in seeing them in person. While not as commercialized as many tourist sites in the US, there is a lot to distract a person from the grandeur of these monuments. Aggressive vendors actually shoving things into your arms as you walk past and then demanding payment, riders on camels following you for great distances all the while offering to pose for photos for a few dollars, etc., etc. No one takes no for an answer. Sites I would see later in the week would make up for any disappointment, however. And it’s undeniable that the pyramids are a wonder of the world. I might get another opportunity to visit them tomorrow. We’ll see if the experience is any different.

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The camel riders descend on the tour buses:

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Performance in Zhouzhuang

I attended an evening performance in Zhouzhuang, China, not really knowing what to expect. I’ve been to a lot of community shows that depict their history through dance and song before and I hate to say that most had done nothing to get my hopes up for this one. Upon arrival at the outdoor performance area set amidst the canals that flow through the old town, my hopes rose. When the show began with an Olympic-opening-ceremony-like extravaganza — I left my seat and headed for a side railing where I could shoot. The next hour (was it more?) was a rush of light and color — truly incredible. I recorded what I could, but it doesn’t do the show justice. Here is a quieter moment that is better able to be conveyed in a still image.

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And thanks to my brother, Bruce, for the loan of his D300. The extra high ISO performance was greatly appreciated!

Water town

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Canal boats being put away for the night in Zhouzhuang, China. This town is very popular with tourists for its historic area criss-crossed by canals. Walk the sidewalks and narrow streets or take a boat ride. If you’re lucky, you might see a wedding boat like this one go by:

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Even thick with tourists, it’s hard to deny the beauty of this place.

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