Category Archives: travel

Chinchon, Spain, and another wonderful parador

Another town nearby to Madrid, Spain, and Barajas airport is Chinchon, and — yes — it, too, has a wonderful parador (the Parador de Chinchon, of course). Although maybe not quite as close to the airport as the parador in Alcala de Henares that I wrote about in my last post, it’s still close enough to make a great first night’s stop or last night before flying out of Barajas.

The parador in Chinchon is located in an Augustinian monastery that dates back to the 17th century:

The streets of Chinchon are a bit steeper and winding than those in Alcala de Henares and the town feels a bit more remote and rustic. The parador is also less modern in styling, but it is extremely comfortable and charming. There are gardens, an outdoor pool and the terrace where I had dinner was the perfect spot to spend a quiet evening. The two Madrid paradors offer very different experiences but I’m quite fond of each for just that reason. It really comes down to what experience you want out of your stay. Alcala de Henares is a perfect fit for those that prefer something very modern but with cultural attractions just steps away, and Chinchon gives more of the feel of having left the city and experiencing an historic Spanish village.

Unlike Alcala, I have only stayed in Chinchon once but would happily return to explore these winding streets further.

Alcala de Henares, Spain

As the holiday season gets into full swing and the year winds down, I want to share just a couple more Spanish cities that I visited in 2014 but that I haven’t mentioned yet because they weren’t the focus of the trip. On all of my 2013-2014 trips to Spain, I’ve flown Iberia and landed in Madrid-Barajas Airport. A great airport and a fantastic airline. While Madrid has never been my final destination, I have needed to stay a night after flying in, or before flying out, before catching my next flight. Twice I’ve stayed at the wonderful Parador de Alcala de Henares just outside of Madrid and not far from Barajas.

Alcala de Henares is the birthplace of author Miguel de Cervantes who wrote the classic Don Quixote. Both Cervantes and his characters are commemorated with bronze sculptures in the heart of this historic city (the core is a UNESCO World Heritage Site).

The parador itself is well located near the main plaza and, like many paradors, is based in an historic structure — in this case a 17th-century monastery and school. But this parador embraces the modern as well, and many of the rooms are situated in newly-built structures that are almost subterranean, with a garden deck located on the rooftop. It’s hard to describe but, trust me, the rooms are wonderful and well lit while feeling very private and secluded.

Within easy walking distance, you have all manner of historic architecture, restaurants, bars, shops, etc. I often had a couple of hours to kill after arriving or before my airport shuttle arrived to explore and aimlessly walking the streets never disappointed.

Keep the Parador de Alcala de Henares in mind if you ever find yourself needing a stopover on your way through Madrid. It’s a great spot to park your bags for a night and to enjoy your first taste of Spain, or to drink in a bit more Spanish hospitality before you depart.

Oh, yes. The storks that I first encountered in Extremadura are here as well. I’ve come to love the rhythmic clatter of their bills and their ever-present — and enormous — nests (although I’m happy to not have one on my own chimney!). Next post — another of my “layover stops” when coming and going from Madrid…

A visit to the Casino de Murcia in Spain

The Casino de Murcia — located in the city of Murcia, Spain — is an exclusive social club. I’ve always loved the idea of a “gentlemen’s club” like this. A place where you could sit in leather chairs all day, reading the newspaper and chatting with friends. To be honest, it’s the idea of being wealthy and idle that appeals to me the most, but the lavish decoration has its charms, too. This particular club is housed in an 1852 building that was modified throughout the years before undergoing a complete restoration/renovation and reopening in 2009. If I could ever join such a club, this would be it. While it is still an exclusive club, the building is open to the public during certain hours so that all can marvel over this ornate architectural jewel.

Upon entering, you find yourself in this multi-story, glass canopied foyer. For those of you that saw my post on the Alhambra, this is like seeing that building in all its multi-colored splendor. It’s truly incredible.

Continuing inside, the ornamentation becomes a tiny bit more restrained, but it is still extravagant. Sitting rooms, ballrooms, libraries, and sculpture galleries: all the things you need to survive in style.

Nearly life-sized paintings of women in traditional Murcian dress hang in one room, but my favorite space was the billiard hall:

The men here were gracious enough to take some time to explain the rules of this pocket-less pool. More complicated than it looks, it requires striking all the balls on the table in one shot, after banking off of a certain number of bumpers first. I think all-in-all, it’s easier to play the version with pockets.

I’m now — more than ever — longing to be able to say the words, “I’ll be at the club.”

On the streets of Murcia, Spain

We had arrived at the hotel in Murcia, Spain, after dark so I didn’t have a real sense of the view I had from my window until the sun started to rise the next morning. As it did, I began to question my location. In the distance I could see what appeared to be a scene more at home in Rio, but I soon learned that this was another Christ statue — this one built amidst the ruins of the 11th century Monteagudo Castle.

The day began with a walking tour of the streets of Murcia and more stunning architecture. We piled out of our cabs at the Casa Consistorial, or Town Hall, and began making our way on foot toward the Cathedral Church of Saint Mary — more often called the Cathedral of Murcia.

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Inside, the cathedral was pleasantly dark and full of ornate decoration.

Outside on the street, musicians created a wonderful soundtrack to a morning stroll.

Next stop, the market — full of fruits, vegetables and all manner of land and sea creatures.

More music on the street as we took a break for tapas. In my next post, I’ll take you inside a gentlemen’s club in Murcia that I would happily join, even though their billiard tables had no pockets…

A huge surprise in Cartagena, Spain

I’ll be honest. Sometimes, when traveling on a press trip and I’m told that we’ll be doing a site inspection of a convention center, I’m sure my eyes roll back a bit. But sometimes things surprise you and Cartagena had one more card up its sleeve. El Batel, the new conference center in Cartagena, Spain, was a huge — and welcome — surprise. A shock, even. I’m honestly trying to think of some kind of event I could attend here.

The outside didn’t give much hint as to what was waiting inside, although I did dig the crazy optic-nerve-bending mural (above) that covered one side of the building and acted as signage when viewed from a certain angle. That should have given me a clue, but I was still shocked upon entering.

White and orange – what a brave choice. I usually think of convention centers as being a blank canvas for the events to make into something of their own but El Batel was a statement all its own. A very bold statement, and one I liked. A lot.

Walking down the white ramp, we passed several break-out rooms, also in vibrant colors. But, truthfully, I was distracted. Because it felt like I was walking into the future. Or, at least, some vision of the future that I’d only seen in science fiction movies.

Auditorium number one. El Batel sits right on the waterfront but we’re still above sea level at this point. Keep that in mind for when we get to the second auditorium.

By the time we reached the lower auditorium, we were under the sea level of the adjacent Mediterranean. The colors of this space reflected that, although it was purely through the materials used and the lighting. You felt you were underwater, but it was all by design.

Heading back up the orange ramp, past the ground floor, we were bound for lunch at the rooftop-level restaurant and lounge.

I’ll reserve judgement for all property inspections in the future. I loved El Batel and could have spent hours photographing it. It would be amazing to see the space transform itself at night, and to see it alive with some event. Anyone want to invite me to present at a photo workshop in Cartagena? I know just the place.

A quick stop in Cartagena, Spain

Cartagena, Spain, joins my list of places that I need to return to and spend more time. I only made a brief stop — a portion of one day — last month, and it just wasn’t enough. There are architectural gems here, along with an amazing history and a bustling present. Here’s a glimpse:

First, you have to love a tour that starts with a giant glass elevator and cantilevered walkway. That circular tower is just such an elevator that takes you from the lower street level, up to the top of a hill in the center of town that overlooks the city and various Roman ruins like the amphitheatre (and former bullring) in the distance. A short walk along the top of this hill, leads to more spectacular views, and more Roman ruins.

In the lower part of the frame above is the recently “re-discovered” Roman theatre of Carthago Nova. The town had gradually grown over this structure for hundreds of years but it has now been excavated and museums are being built to house more of the artifacts that have been recovered.

There are open air sites where digs are still being undertaken that are open to the public as well:

But around all this history is a stunning, lively city with streets lined with restaurants and shops.

Should you find yourself in Cartagena (and are of age), be sure to pause long enough to order a Café Asiático, a coffee-based drink with condensed milk, brandy and a locally produced liquor, Licor 43:

Then, of course, continue exploring.

Mar Menor, the “minor sea” of southeastern Spain

It is said that Esther Williams called Spain’s Mar Menor “the largest swimming pool in the world.” In fact, it’s a large body of shallow, warm water separated from the Mediterranean by a narrow strip of sand called La Manga. La Manga is just wide enough in places to allow for a road and beachfront properties on either side. If you’re the kind of person that likes the idea of seeing the sun rise over water out one window, and later watching it set — over water — out another, then this is the place for you.

Visiting in October, La Mota beach at San Pedro del Pinatar was not overly crowded although I’m guessing that may not be the case at other times of the year. With a marina and mountains in the distance, Mar Menor provides a calm setting for a day in the sun. There are also docks at the adjacent salt marshes (just down the promenade, past the windmill and opposite the beach) where you can cover yourself in the “medicinal muds”, which are said to assist in everything from skin problems to arthritis.

Ezequiela’s windmill lends a decidedly Spanish accent to the La Mota beach area of San Pedro del Pinatar.

Taking the ferry across Mar Menor to La Manga gives you an idea of the scale of this body of water, and offers a seaside view of many of the resort towers that line the shores.

My home for the night would be the nearby Intercontinental Mar Menor Golf Resort & Spa, which could be a destination in and of itself.

My room overlooked the pool to the right, and the beautifully designed housing development that surrounds the resort, to the left (below). I photographed the sunset, had yet another phenomenal Spanish meal, and went to bed looking forward to another day of exploring the region of Murcia in the morning.

Exploring Lorca, Spain

Lorca, Spain, suffered a devastating earthquake in 2011 that killed nine people and injured dozens more. While signs of the damage are still evident, the city is rebounding and is ready to welcome travelers. The images that follow are all from one short afternoon’s walk through the historic district. There is much to see here, and the new parador makes a great base camp for exploration.

Above and below, the Chapel of the Rosary — outside and inside, exceptionally beautiful. The museum of embroidery (next door to the chapel and seen at the left in the photo above) is also worth a stop.

The courtyard of the Palacio de Guevara, above.

Back to Spain – the Region of Murcia

Just over two weeks ago, I was jetting my way back to Spain — this time to photograph the region of Murcia in the southeastern part of the country. The first night was spent in the Parador de Lorca. Paradores have become a favorite of mine — always unique and often historic in one way or another. This one was a new build, but in a historic setting sharing a mountaintop with a 13th century Moorish castle.

The parador was nearly complete when an earthquake struck in 2011, damaging both the new building and the old castle. Repairs were made and the structural banding added to the parador became a design element that distinguishes the new construction from the old. As stunning as the structure is, however, it’s the setting high above the city of Lorca that draws your eye.

Above, the parador (in the lower left of the image) as seen from the top of one of the castle towers.

Above: Looking down on the city of Lorca from the parador grounds.

Construction of the Parador de Lorca was also delayed and re-imagined whenever ruins were found during excavations. One discovery was this 15th century synagogue — now preserved, adjacent to the hotel:

For a small admission fee, the castle itself can easily be explored on foot from the parador and provides spectacular views.

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In my next post I’ll venture down, off the mountain, and into the town of Lorca.

Iceland, Day 4, the East Fjords

My fourth day in Iceland started off great. I got up early and drove over the high mountain pass to the small coastal town of Seyðisfjörður. This would be the easternmost – and northernmost – point of my trip to Iceland. The early morning drive up and over the ridge was beautiful. The image above is the first view you get of Seyðisfjörður. If you’ve seen the recent remake of The Secret Life of Walter Mitty, the road I was traveling here is the one that Ben Stiller skateboards on.

As you drop into the fjord valley, the road parallels a river that drops over a series of waterfalls. Perhaps the largest — that you can see from the road, anyway — is Gufufoss. There’s a small turnout near the falls so I parked the Tiguan and walked to the falls, through a small group of sheep that were far to focussed on grazing to worry about me. The sun had not yet topped the ridge so I began shooting the falls while they were in full shade:

As I repositioned my tripod, the sunlight began to creep down the cliff face and just began to touch the foreground rocks:

I’m still not sure which of those two versions I prefer. I could have happily stayed and shot longer, but I had a full day ahead and pressed on, down into the valley.

The town was still fully in the shade when I arrived so I drove on through and made a few pictures along the fjord as the sun rose.

Working my way back into town, I went through a bit of an industrial area and loved this old, weathered boat. The sun was just now reaching down into the town, so I made my way to the small inlet so that I could get some shots of the buildings reflected in the water.

I finished up in town and began driving back west — I was officially on my way back to Reykjavik, but had plenty of stops in mind for along the way. First, I decided to stop and shoot the lake that I’d found at the top of the pass earlier in the morning. In the distance you can see what I’m assuming is more smoke from the volcano erupting not far away:

Instead of taking Highway 1 back the way I’d come, I took the smaller highways — 92 and 96 — that stayed closer to the coast. Crossing into the next fjord, however, the clouds began to lower and the weather changed abruptly.

I find Iceland to be particularly beautiful in these dark, moody conditions and was not disappointed at all about losing the sun. I was beginning to realize that I had not seen many people over the last few days. I doubt I’d spoken more than a sentence or two for at least 48 hours. I don’t mind the solitude, but one of the categories of the photo shootout I was participating in was “people” and I began to wonder if I would ever get a chance to make a portrait.

Stopping along the road to get this photo, my luck changed:

I’ll admit it: I was shooting this one out of the car window when I noticed another car pulling off and parking on the other side of the road. When I saw a man with a snow white beard get out of the car, I realized my portrait subjects had just found me. I trotted across the street and spoke with the bearded man’s friend (who seemed to have better English), telling him about my photo project. They agreed to pose for a photo before setting off on their hike, but the English-speaker’s phone rang and he stepped aside to take the call. While he was occupied, I made a few photos of his bearded friend:

The phone call over, I photographed the pair of friends with their hiking gear. This shot was the sole “people” shot I entered, and I was happy to take the gold for it:

Thanks to my patient subjects for postponing their hike long enough to humor me for these images. Back on the road, the clouds continued to descend and sheep were my only companions once again. They tended to linger along the roadsides, but seemed to have enough sense not to dart out into traffic, thankfully.

I finally arrived back to intersect with Highway 1 and soon found myself near the falls I’d shot the afternoon before — Foldafoss. Since I had actually been thinking that those falls would have looked nice in gloomier weather, I thought it was worth a shot to go back up my gravel road a bit to see how they looked in the low clouds. I was so glad that I did as the conditions were perfect and I got several shots of the falls that rank among some of my all-time favorites. It began to rain while I was finishing up and the clouds sank ever lower as I drove back west. The conditions worsened to the point that I could only see a few yards and the mountains and ocean views were lost to me for the rest of the day. I rolled into Vik for the night and scrubbed all my photography plans due to the rain and fog. Skaftafell and the other shots I’d saved for the ride back had to be scrubbed as well. The shootout period continued until 5:00 the following afternoon, but I didn’t get another single frame that I felt was worth entering. Hard to feel too bad about it, though, when I finished up day 4 with these shots of Foldafoss before the sky fell:

Michael C. Snell photography blog

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