Category Archives: thailand

Traffic at the night market

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I ended day one in Thailand at the night market in Chiang Mai. The market itself was fairly touristy — lots of t-shirts and trinkets — but the local traffic was colorful enough for me. I enjoy places where a large percentage of the traffic is on fewer than four wheels and Thailand is full of scooters, motorcycles and tuktuks. It’s a hobby of mine to lock the shutter speed at 1/15th of a second and pan with these commuters in the evening to turn the background into a chaos of color. Obviously not every shot will be great but you end up with a few and I’m not paying for film and processing anymore so what’s it really matter? Chalk up another win for digital — it frees you to experiment and from failure comes the occasional wild success. As with the lottery, you don’t win if you don’t play.

I haven’t mentioned much about the Red Shirt protests in Bangkok. They began around March 12th and I arrived on the 15th. During my two weeks in Thailand — about half of that spent in Bangkok — the protests remained quite peaceful. You would see the occasional street blocked off or a group of riot police at a checkpoint but you could easily go about your day without any problems. On only one day did a tour get cancelled due to street closures and traffic problems due to the protests. When I flew out of Bangkok on the 28th, there were signs of enhanced security near the airport but things remained peaceful.

That has unfortunately changed in the last couple of days. While I had been having to check the news on BBC’s Asia-Pacific page, the Bangkok protests have now appeared on the front page of CNN’s site. The situation has worsened with at least 20 dead now and hundreds more wounded. It’s hard as an outsider to fully understand the state of affairs or to know from half way around the world what the current condition is or why things went south. I can only hope that we’ve seen the worst and that soon Thailand can move beyond the violence. It’s a beautiful country with amazingly kind people that deserve to live in peace.

Of course, photographers have been on scene throughout. The Boston Globe’s Big Picture ran a series of images from the “unrest” on April 9th. I’ve also been following the coverage of Bangkok-based photographer Gavin Gough on his blog (search it for “red shirt” and you’ll see several entries). I think you’ll find from these image galleries that things are not entirely black and white. They never are.

Thai cooking school

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Day one in Thailand continued as I photographed a cooking class at the Four Seasons in Chiang Mai. Beware the Bird Eye peppers in the bowl above. They are small but they are mighty.

I have to say that the food that came out of this cooking class was some of the best I had while in Thailand, and I had some incredibly good food! Hopefully I’ll be able to recreate some of the dishes at home from the recipes provided by the Four Seasons but I’m afraid my attention was more on photography than the preparation instructions. I may come to regret that later.

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The top photo of this grouping is the Gaeng Kiew Warn Kai, or Green Curry with Chicken in Coconut Milk (that may have been my favorite). Bottom left shows the open-air “classroom” and bottom right is a Som Tam, or Green Papaya Salad. If you want to learn to cook Thai food, I can’t think of a better place than this. If you want to photograph people cooking Thai food, I only suggest that you step back when the Bird Eye peppers hit the hot wok.

Bo Sang, Thailand: Umbrella Village

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Post-processing images from a trip is like replaying the experience in slow motion. A heavy day’s worth of images can easily take more time to process than to shoot. I don’t tend to review my shots on the road that much. I’ll chimp a bit to make sure everything is working properly but I’m a bit of a battery miser and — given the pace that I’m often traveling — just don’t have the time to review thoroughly on the road. That said, I always have a reasonable idea of what’s on the hard drives at the end of the day and I wonder how I ever managed, back in the days of film, to travel for weeks and not have any idea of what my take looked like until slides arrived back from the lab. Digital — how’d I ever live without you?

So this post is the first of several that I’ll write as I relive my recent trip to Thailand. Day one has now been processed and it began with a trip to Bo Sang, otherwise known as “umbrella village”, near Chiang Mai. Everywhere you turn in this town, there are umbrellas. They are not just sold here, but manufactured here. From raw materials to brightly decorated umbrellas and fans, you can observe the entire process. And it’s humbling to watch. This is not a high-tech factory situation but many skilled workers turning bamboo, wood and paper into functional objects, mostly with the simplest of hand tools. And they work incredibly fast with the assuredness that comes with years of experience.

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Much of the manufacturing happens in small, open-air spaces behind homes around the village but the decoration and painting can be seen taking place near the town gate, behind a shop that sells — you guessed it — umbrellas. Freshly papered umbrellas dry on the grass in a central courtyard while painters work in the shade of the surrounding awning. As I photographed these people working, some would offer to paint dragons on my camera bag in just 10 minutes (an offer I now regret not taking them up on). In fact, they’ll paint just about anything for you and I witnessed many people getting their shirts painted right on their backs.

Each January, Bo Sang holds an umbrella festival complete with parades and beauty contests. That, I can imagine, would be a true photo opportunity.

A note on the warmth of these shots: I tend to shoot with my white balance set to “cloudy” to add a little extra warmth much as one would do by adding a warming filter when shooting with film. The warmth in these images is largely natural, however, due to the air quality. Controlled burning of agricultural fields in the area was creating a fair amount of smoke and haze, not unlike what I often experience back home in the Great Plains of the U.S. in the spring. While it doesn’t do much for landscape photography where you want good visibility and blue skies, it does extend those golden hours as the sun filters through the smoke. As with many situations in photography, you can view it as a problem or an opportunity. Here, I think it worked in my favor and has added a cohesive tone element to everything I shot that morning.

Back in the office

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I’ve been back from Thailand for a week now but I’m still in the thick of organizing and processing my images from the trip. I’ve ended up with about 5000 “keeper” shots after purging the really bad stuff. Those images have all been renamed and filed with the most basic location information included in their description fields (city, province, country, continent). I’ve also added rough star-ratings but they will undoubtedly change as I begin the actual post-processing. That’s where I currently stand — I’m ready to begin making color corrections and other adjustments to get these images ready for submission to stock agencies and publishers. I’ll also need to keyword everything. Normally I would wait until after making corrections to keyword but I’ll probably jump back and forth between editing and keywording this time so that I don’t end up with a mind-numbingly long keywording task at the end.

Not all 5000 images will be distributed. There are lots of near duplicates as well as bracketed shots for HDR and sequences destined to become stitched panoramas. There are also lots of shots that I take for reference like signs that show the name and spelling of a place. This isn’t the most glamorous part of being a travel photographer but it’s necessary. Taking the photos is just the beginning. Getting them into the market and in the hands of photo buyers is crucial if you want to make a living.

Floating market

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One of the shots I wanted to be sure to get while in Thailand was a floating market. They still exist but many have become so popular among tourists that they products sold are more often souvenirs than food. You also need an early start in order to get more locals in your shots than tourists.

I arrived just as the first boats were setting up. There were plenty of t-shirt and trinket vendors already, but there were also locals — like this man — buying their breakfasts. I liked the moment in this shot where the plate was just being exchanged.

I shot a lot that morning and have a few that I think are successful. Did I get that iconic shot? Probably not. But you can’t expect to get that in one morning.

Kho Panyi, Phang Nga Bay, Thailand

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My time in Thailand is nearly over. I’m on the island of Phuket now but I will catch a flight back to Bangkok this afternoon. Tomorrow I’ll begin the long series of flights home, crossing 12 time zones.

The shot above was taken at Panyi island during a tour of Phang Nga Bay. This area was one of the places I had looked forward to the most on this trip and it didn’t disappoint. You’ll no doubt see more of it here in the coming weeks as I get all of my images processed and ready for the stock agencies. Unfortunately, that’s not something I can do well while on the road. My laptop was chosen for compactness and has far too tiny a screen to do any real Lightroom or Photoshop work. Once back in the office, I’ll get to work.

Maybe another posting from Bangkok tomorrow. Then the grueling flight-a-thon.

Thai puppet show

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I shot this with special permission at the Thai Puppet Show in The Aksra Theater in Bangkok last night. It was a fantastic performance and capped an amazing day of photographing temples in the ruins of Ayutthaya. So many images to share and so little time at the moment.

More to come…

Wat Tung Yu

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I took a walk through the old walled city of Chiang Mai, Thailand this morning just after sunrise. The place is littered with temples but many are tucked away — out of view from the street. Walking was the perfect way to stumble across these jewels. The shot above is of Wat Tung Yu.

Abstract cat

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I know. “Not another cat photo!” I can hear you from here. Tough.

When we moved the office back into the house, I knew I wanted to separate the two spaces. The four-legged furballs were among the main factors in that decision. So, we added a door to a hallway in the new house that defines “office” from “house”. We chose a ridged glass door to let light through and keep the back hall from getting dark and dreary. An added benefit is that I can see who is lying in wait outside when I go to get a snack from the fridge. The distortion of the glass makes for interesting patterns and I’ve been thinking about working on a series of shots of the cats through the glass in various stages of recognizability. Here’s the first — our calico, Eclair.

I’ll see if I can’t get an actual travel shot up tomorrow and then it’s back on the road on Sunday. I’ll post if I have access. See ya there.